Showing posts with label Seafood. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Seafood. Show all posts

Sunday, July 18, 2010

The Landing at Ocean Beach

Ocean Beach's newest restaurant offers a delightful waterside dining experience at reasonable prices (well, reasonable for Ocean Beach). A friend and I chose it for a light lunch on a perfectly sunny beach afternoon. (We'd already overindulged on seafood bisque and fried flounder wraps at Nicky's Clam Bar before taking the ferry, so the giant pancakes at Rachel's weren't an option. Plus, we wanted to enjoy a view of the bay.)

A classic Caesar with grilled salmon sounded good, but I ended up with a sweet-savory green salad with lots of crumbled Maytag blue cheese, chunks of Granny Smith apple, and crispy candied walnuts in a sweet poppy seed dressing. My friend opted for the mussels provencal; two thick slices of well-buttered, grilled garlic bread lay aside a healthy portion of mussels in a light garlic-wine sauce with diced tomatoes.

If my appetite had allowed, I would've tried the fried scallop sandwich or the fish and chips (only $12). Next time I visit Ocean Beach, I will try to resist the allure of Nicky's so that I can wait to eat at The Landing!

The Landing at Ocean Beach: 620 Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island (631) 583-5800.
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Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Elias Corner

My companion and finally heeded the siren call of Astoria and all of its culinary riches - we moved there. I spent the past few days stocking up the fridge with taramosalata and tzatziki from Mediterranean Foods (23-18 31st St., 718-721-0221), skordalia from Angelo's Food Emporium (31-27 Ditmars Blvd., 718-278-0705), and still-warm, freshly made mozzarella from Rosario's Deli (22-55 31st St., 718-728-2920). Then, it was time to celebrate our move in an appropriately bacchanalian way; we headed over to the legendary Elias Corner.

Were it not for the elevated train, one would think this was a seaside restaurant. A display of glistening fish and shellfish is the focal point of the entrance, and the dining room is painted a nautical blue. We sat down to a giant loaf of sesame bread and a plate of olive oil, and listened to our waitress rattle off the menu (there is no printed menu). Did we want jumbo shrimp, porgy, red snapper, Chilean sea bass, striped sea bass, branzini, wild salmon, soft-shell crabs? Grilled or fried? Oh, and appetizers? Saganaki, fried calamari, Greek salad? How about sides? Fried potatoes, broccoli, lemon potatoes...

To start, we ordered the saganaki, a large brick of slightly melted, firm cheese enveloped in a thin, crispy crust. We liberally squeezed it with lemon and soon there was none left. We also devoured a tomato-heavy Greek salad, which was sprinkled with plenty of feta. Then it was time for the main event: the fish.

"I think this is the best fish I've ever had," said my companion. digging into an herb-sprinkled Chilean sea bass steak. Wordlessly, I agreed, my mouth full of sweet, mild branzini (I'd ordered it whole so I could enjoy the grilled skin). There was no way we could even attempt to eat the lemon potatoes in their bath of warm olive oil, and we had to have them wrapped up.

Sighing with satisfaction, we paid the check - and then walked over to Artopolis Bakery (but that's a subject for another post).

Elias Corner: 24-02 31st St., Astoria, (718) 932-1510.
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Friday, January 06, 2006

What's Better Than Le Bernardin?

Why, Le Bernardin by the pool in 80-degree weather, of course. Eric Ripert, the restaurant's celebrated chef, has brought his craft to bluer pastures with the opening of Blue and Periwinkle at the Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman. I'm reminiscing over my recent delicious experiences there on Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page.
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Thursday, December 22, 2005

BLT Fish

I thought that the transit strike would empty out the restaurants, but BLT Fish was as crowded as ever last night. My friends and I sat down a little before 10 p.m. We'd originally intended to eat at the downstairs BLT Fish Shack, but the menu from upstairs just spoke to us (as did the relative quietude).

Before our chosen selections, we were presented with an amuse-bouche of smoked salmon and finely minced apple with creme fraiche. We were then surprised by the deceptively humble cheddar-chive biscuits, which in my opinion, were one of the most memorable foods of the evening - moist, buttery and flaky all at once. I tore my steaming biscuit apart and slathered it with butter and maple syrup. As I think back on the amazing popovers at BLT Steak, I wonder if a BLT Bakery could be next for Tourondel.

The grilled Ecuadorian shrimp appetizer was sold out, so I ordered the spicy tuna tartare. It was similar to BLT Steak's rendition in that the square of tuna was served on a layer of avocado. However, it included a dollop of American caviar and was creamy with spicy mayonnaise. Its flavor did not include a hint of soy, but rather zesty lemon.

The menu, which features whole fish by the pound, included sea bass and Cantonese-style red snapper. But when I heard that only one Mediterranean loup de mer remained, I had to order it. My friends enjoyed the four plump grilled Maine sea scallops and the Alaskan king salmon steaks with tangy ginger ketchup and mild roasted garlic aioli. My own loup de mer arrived already filleted; although the fish was moist and rich-flavored, I prefer the spectacle of a whole fish. Not to mention, it fills the plate!

Our chosen sides were the Parmesan gnocchi, baked fennel, garlic mashed potatoes, garlic spinach and grilled asparagus. All were exceedingly rich! The asparagus was topped with thin slices of Parmesan, buttered bread crumbs decorated the fennel, and the gnocchi were half-an-inch deep in cream.

By now our stomachs were groaning. Naturally, I was the only one to order a dessert (the others were satisfied by the complimentary green apple cotton candy and petits fours). Deliberating between the lime millefeuilles and the caramelized meringue, I finally decided on the pumpkin tart. The accompanying ice cream provided an interesting cognitive dissonance; expecting a mouthful of cold ice cream, I was hit with a rush of hot spice. I would've loved to take home a pint of it! And it was only fitting that having begun my meal with a crunchy-topped tuna tartare, I would end it with a crunchy hazelnut-topped pumpkin tart.

Next stop, BLT Prime!

BLT Fish: 21 West 17th St., (212) 691-8888.
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Monday, June 27, 2005

Brooklyn Fish Camp

I've always been intimidated by the line at Mary's Fish Camp, so I was excited to hear about the opening of their new sister restaurant, Brooklyn Fish Camp. This weekend, I scurried over to Park Slope. Fortunately, I was able to score a table at lunchtime, but the waitress informed me that the dinner scene is much more competitive.

The blue-walled space is quite inviting; there's a long, narrow bar at the entrance and an outdoor dining area in the back. The menu is almost identical to Mary's... you'll find the same lobster knuckles, Canadian steamers, etc. On the day I went, there were four fish specials: black tilapia, Costa Rican red snapper, dourade and black sea bass.

At the table next to me, a man had made short work of an obviously gargantuan fish, leaving a pile of bones and tail on a small dish. I wondered what had been so delicious. "He had the tilapia," said my waitress. "Of all the fish we have today, I recommend that one if you want fried fish. It comes with grilled vegetables." I decided to add a side of Old Bay-seasoned matchstick fries to my order.

I really shouldn't have; the pile of fries must have measured half a foot in height. And the fish would have been a meal for Moby Dick! A giant batter-fried tilapia overwhelmed the plate, crushing a timid assortment of sliced vegetables. The man next to me chuckled. "You should've asked them to fillet it for you."

Thus challenged, I made an effort to consume the entire tilapia. I relished the tasty, crunchy batter and tore away at the moist, sweet fish underneath. But after eating only half, I was already full. There was no way I could scale that mountain of fries. Still, the man was impressed. "Great job!"

The waitress, also impressed, asked if I would like to finish with a steamed lemon pudding, a fresh strawberry shortcake, or a hot fudge sundae with gelato from Il Laboratorio del Gelato. I had to decline. (But I couldn't help noticing later that the nearby Chocolate Room has a new summer menu, which features white chocolate lemon mousse, chocolate strawberry shortcake and frozen hot chocolate.)

Brooklyn Fish Camp: 162 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 783-3264.
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Saturday, August 21, 2004

Sable's Smoked Fish

Do not go into Sable's if you have dinner plans. The jovial countermen at this legendary food shop will ply you with morsel after tasty morsel of smoked salmon. "Try this one. Do you like your salmon saltier or fattier?" And then, when you have exhausted the salmon possibilities (Scottish, Irish, Norwegian, Eastern Gaspe, etc.), they will tempt you with smoked trout, eel, sturgeon and whitefish. By now you will be quite stuffed, but you will not be able to say no to crostini topped with the "World's Best Lobster Salad" and the "World's Best Crabmeat Salad."

This is exactly what happened to me today. I went into Sable's with the sole intention of buying a chocolate babka for my grandmother, when I was suddenly bombarded with complimentary bites of Irish smoked salmon, Sable's "sushi" (smoked salmon wraps filled with salmon salad), and lobster and crabmeat salads. My evident appreciation of the snacks compelled the countermen to keep offering me more of them. I could barely concentrate on my purchase.

Of course I bought more goodies than I'd intended to. But just as I was about to make my exit, a voice called after me, "Wait, have you tried our chopped liver?"

Sable's Smoked Fish: 1489 2nd Ave., (212) 249-6177.
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Wednesday, June 30, 2004

Shore

Lounging in wicker chairs, we felt as though we were still on vacation in Montauk. Fortunately for us, a new menu of exotic cocktails was debuting tonight, and we decided to prolong our festivities with two big glasses of "Shore Grog." This deceptively smooth blend of spiced, dark, and coconut rums and pineapple and orange juices was quite potent! (Also on the drink menu was an intriguing oyster martini, which we'll have to try on our next visit.)

We munched on warm cornbread while reading over the extensive menu. As is evidenced by the name, Shore specializes in all manner of littlenecks, steamers, lobster rolls and fresh fish. (For those not inclined towards seafood, there's also a 10 oz. burger and a chicken pot pie.) The daily specials today included a fritto misto and a linguini in tomato cream sauce with two kinds of clams.

I opted for the Boston Batter-Fried Combo Plate, a giant tumble of tasty flash-fried clams, sweet jumbo shrimp, and plump scallops scattered over a filet of sole and accompanied by a large pile of French fries. The seafood was perfectly and greaselessly fried, the batter light and flaky. Long after I was full, I could not restrain myself from dipping yet another fried clam in the addictive coriander cocktail and tartar sauces.

My companion's scallop roll was a generous portion of grilled scallops on a toasted, buttered hot dog roll, served with a side of greens.

A homemade strawberry-blueberry pie with a buttery crumb topping was the perfect finale to a completely satisfying summer meal. (Other dessert options included strawberry pie, rhubarb pie and "North Shore" chocolate bread pudding.)

We'll be back for the Sunday jazz brunch and the weekday happy-hour special: 6 oysters and a pint of ale for $10!

Shore: 41 Murray St., (212) 962-3750.
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Thursday, June 26, 2003

Pearl Oyster Bar

The blazing sun heralded the arrival of summer after weeks of rain. Naturally, my thoughts turned to lobster rolls. Since I was not able to go to the beach, I took the F train to the West Village and walked into the much-beloved Pearl Oyster Bar. However, once inside the shellfish mecca, I became distracted by the various delicacies which competed for my attention. Jumbo lump crabcakes, fried oyster rolls... the embarrassment of riches overwhelmed me. After much soul-searching, I finally decided on a golden-brown pan-fried cod fillet on thick toasted bread with caper tartar sauce, red onion and ripe tomato, served with a heap of toothpick-thin shoestring fries. When I remarked upon the capers in the tartar sauce, the friendly waitress offered, "If you want the recipe, you'll find it in this new book just released by chef Rebecca Charles!" I glanced at the blueberry crumble pie recipe; now I can't wait until the blueberries are in season!

Pearl Oyster Bar: 18 Cornelia Street, (212) 691-8211.
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